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Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s finest dining spots, one might anticipate renowned high-end venues. Yet, situated high among these food titans is a unpretentious salonu found in a outlying part of north London.

A Surprise Recognition

This little Turkish spot, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a influential culinary publication. This accolade has left the proprietors totally surprised.

“I’m totally surprised,” remarks the owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their small restaurant securing such a lofty spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

This small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after spot, has retained much of its former feel. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking performance, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” says the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the food, and this restaurant certainly succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a succulent consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. As the flavourful mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the tasty meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The respected food critic called this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than usual, imparting it a deeper, more aromatic and not overly sweet taste.

Outranking the Titans

Interestingly, this modest spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the top of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, similar meals at top-tier establishments can run into many times that price.

A Creed of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of excess, and to reveal what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I feel very pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum used to be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a personal life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s success is likely to have meaning beyond its own doors. “I believe numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the wider importance of this gastronomic achievement.